Wednesday 10 June 2009

Paradise lost

After the horrors of the Banaue bus journey back to Manila, it was great to see Susie’s smiling face and hear her dulcet Aussie twang, “Fwark it’s hot here!"

We spent one night in Manila and then headed off for the paradise island of Boracay, about an hour’s flight south of the capital.

In an effort to use as many modes of transport as possible in one day, we got off the aircraft into a tricycle, which took us to the port where we caught a boat to the island and then a minibus to the resort.

It was spattering with rain as we got to the hotel on Diniwid beach, but the room was so beautiful and the views so perfect that we didn’t mind too much. How bad could the weather be in paradise anyway?

It was then that Susie uttered the fatal words, “Wouldn’t it be cool if we had a storm?”

And we did. For three days.

We spent a lot of time lying in the room reading books and doing crosswords waiting for the weather to break.

I even had time for a haircut.

One evening the skies were clear and we were treated to a famous Boracay sunset - complete with stray dog.

We decided to chance the weather and walk into town for dinner, only for us to get caught in a downpour and have to dive into the nearest restaurant looking like a pair of drowned rats. Well I looked like a drowned rat, the wet look just made Susie look more gorgeous, of course!

When the weather eventually cleared we were able to enjoy what is a really beautiful island.

We had a beautiful room,

and the sea was only a few steps away from our little porch. Perfect.

And the island is stunning. The main White Beach, while a bit too touristy for my tastes, is just how a beach in paradise should be - white sands, palm trees and turquoise waters.

But as with all things Filipino, the reality of third-world life is never far away. One morning after the storms I woke up and saw all these people lined up staring at the waves - turns out they were looking for banknotes dropped by tourists. I can't believe it's a particularly lucrative trade, but they were at it for hours.

To get to the main beach from our little cove you had to make your way round the headland on a little rock pathway over the water.

This arrangement was fine at low-tide, during the day and in fine weather, but in the dark, with rough seas and at high tide we realised why the locals had built a little shrine half-way round!

The rest of the week passed at a delightfully slow pace, involving nothing more stressful than swimming, competitive crosswording, eating and drinking. All very taxing.

We did venture into town for a ‘big one’ on the Friday night only for the rain to begin again, flooding the floor of the bar we were in.

As I stood up to avoid the rising waters I whacked my head on a wooden beam (the importance of which comes later).

We moved to a nightclub further along the strip only for the storm to put a mockers on that too.

Our final morning was spent enjoying a champagne brunch overlooking our delightful little cove.

It hadn’t quite been the week in the sun-kissed tropical paradise I’d originally intended - serves me right for taking an Australian on a beach holiday, I suppose!

Still, she seemed to enjoy herself.